It was quite a surprise to see winemaker, Andries Burger - bright-eyed and clean shaven! - at the vertical of his Paul Cluver Sauvignon Blancs on 19th February. I mean, it's harvest time, isn't it? Winemakers are supposed to be squirreled away in the cellar, thinking of the day's intake, fermentation temperatures, why the press has broken down when it's just been serviced and the like, rather than their appearance.

Andries cheerfully points out that harvesting got underway only two days previously with the first small loads. Notably, no sauvignon blanc has yet been harvested; even though the 2009 harvest is later. Traditionally the first sauvignon from the older blocks (the first sauvignon vines were planted in 1993) comes in towards the end of February, the younger blocks around mid-March, with those vines on the higher slopes, close to 500 metres above sea level, the last to be picked towards the end of March.

A range of different clones adds further complexity to both the wine and understanding it! Yet, despite these variables, the six vintages we tasted (2003 to 2008) distinctly reveal the restraint that best epitomises the house style; an assured base always interestingly modified by weather conditions. I say house style, as I wouldn't like to lay claim to recognising a typical Elgin sauvignon, especially as the Elgin Ward's vineyards are strung out far and wide on this high-lying plateau.

Over six vintages the depth of colour between the oldest and the youngest might be expected to give a clear indication as to which is which, yet it was immediately obvious how very little colour had evolved in the 2003. Regrettably, the first bottle is dulled by age; a second bottle upholds the vintage excellence, though a curious rose petal note elicits queries as to whether it contains any gewürztraminer - 'Definitely not' Burger assures. This pleasingly developed six-year-old rouses Paul Cluver to ask rhetorically where South Africa fits into the sauvignon blanc world before giving the expected answer - 'they are already looking for the 2009.'

The cussedness of the consumer is that many, when given a well-matured wine, really enjoy it but then don't want to have to mature it themselves nor pay the premium for an older wine!

The 04 still has some minerality and juiciness but overall is somewhat sullen and four-square. It might have been a question of a less than perfect seal (both 2003 and 04 were closed with cork) but Burger confirms it wasn't a great vintage.

The first vintage under screwcap, 2005, fascinates with its toasty fume overlay to the traditional fresh minerally core. Sleek, savoury and beautifully balanced, it's great drinking now, as is the 2006, though with a slightly more open tropical richness. As this might suggest, drink the 06 before the 05 and both before the 2007, the uncontested favourite at our tasting. It fully lives up to this heralded white wine vintage in its refinement and complexity. I note 'texture' in my notes, a feature which presumably stems from a tiny 4% semillon inclusion. It seriously advises 'don't drink me now if you'd prefer something more interesting in a year or three' - or more, I'd imagine.

The same and even more so, applies to the 2008, although inherently it shows richer expression and more flesh (again, there's a 4% semillon addition), but still needs to shed the gawkiness of youth.

The natural feel and unshowy nature of these sauvignons may confuse those used to more flamboyance but unlike those which shout sauvignon, these make great food partners - rather than fighters!

Tastings such as these give invaluable insights; it would be good to think that, even vicariously, these notes will encourage winelovers to appreciate sauvignons older than the current vintage and not demand wines, deserving time, almost as soon as the grapes have been snipped off the vine.