Grape variety and immediate drinkability, with a sub-text in white wines of the younger the better, are generally the drivers of winelovers' buying decisions. Confirmation of the first requirement is found in a recent Decanter magazine poll, which asked 'Would you buy more unusual wines if the grape variety were listed on the front label?' A convincing 67% responded in the affirmative; only 14% voted 'No. If it tastes good, who needs to know what's in it?'

South Africans are no different, generally preferring the confidence inspired by a grape variety or varieties listed on a label rather than a proprietary name. Acceptance of wines such as Vergelegen's white flagship, Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh and Kanonkop's Paul Sauer derives both from their track record of maturation potential and success in picking up various awards. A high price tag also probably directs the buyer is a more sophisticated consumer.

The button of acceptance is about to be pushed somewhat further by the imminent maiden release of a three-year old, unoaked white blend (the Vergelegen and Cape Point are both barrel-fermented and aged) with an alcohol falling just under the 13% mark, a price tag of R200 and the proprietary name, Ashbourne Sandstone.

Ashbourne is one of a trio of labels owned by Anthony Hamilton Russell and separated according to the terroir of his Hemel-en-Aarde Valley properties. Named after his great, great grandfather, the Ashbourne terroir allows for two labels; the white Sandstone and a red.

The Sandstone, as the name suggests, derives from such eponymous soils and is a blend of sauvignon blanc, which Anthony H-R finds performs particularly successfully on this a light-structured, free-draining medium, chardonnay and a splash of semillon - the last bought in fruit, though the variety has since been planted.

The intention was always to release the wine once it had developed some secondary character. It has more than warranted this move; sauvignon's simplicity has yielded to developing complexity led by minerality and a savoury marine quality. Balancing this and the lowish alcohol is a satisfying textural richness, which adds in no small measure to the wine's pleasure. It's a feature that Anthony H-R and winemaker, Hannes Storm, are exploring further without using oak. In 2009, the chardonnay portion was fermented in a clay amphora, which apparently encourages the oxidative effect of barrel fermentation without either the flavour of new oak or less desirable characteristics of older barrels.

A sympathetic food partner now, Ashbourne Sandstone gives every indication of being able to reveal even greater interest over, perhaps two or three years.

Ashbourne - the red with no qualifier - is less known than it should be for a variety of reasons, not least that its release has been irregular: the maiden 2001 was followed by 2004 and 2005 with a further skipped vintage to 2007.

These early vintages are 100% pinotage, but again there is no indication of variety on the label, the desire being to reflect the terroir on which the vines are grown; in this case low-vigour, clay-rich soil.

I'm very fond of the cool climate pinotages from around Walker Bay: Springfontein Jonathon's Ridge, Stanford Hills Jacksons Pinotage, Beaumont and Sumaridge. Like all these, Ashbourne reflects more the pinot side of the variety, with engaging freshness, though its identity is not always immediately obvious.

It's a great pity that more of these cool climate examples don't feature in the Absa Top Ten Pinotage competition - whether because they don't enter or aren't sufficiently appreciated by the judges, I don't know (Wildekrans 2007 made it to the top 20 this year, but no further), but I believe they will attract many who don't care for the bigger, richer styles that do seem to predominate when awards are on the line.

Anthony H-R's goal with Ashbourne is 'a distinctly South African, classically styled, site expressive' wine. While it will always be pinotage driven, four Bordeaux varieties (no merlot) and shiraz have been planted on the same site; a small percentage of cabernet sauvignon was included in 2007 to enhance the wine.

Its price tag, on a par with Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir, establishes its desired positioning. A line up of the first three vintages showed their smart paces with the not unappealing support of La Colombe's Luke Dale Roberts' dishes.

The Ashbourne pair might not reveal their make up but I'd suggest that should you adopt the attitude of the 14% of Decanter pollsters, you won't be disappointed.