I was sipping on my morning cup of coffee while idly turning over the pages of the Makro Christmas wine catalogue, when my eyes fixed on the description for merlot.

As I had decided to concentrate on all the double gold and gold medal merlots at the Veritas awards' tasting that evening (a decision spurred on by the fact that this controversial category had gained the most double gold and gold medals of any category - 18 in total), this description was of particular interest..

It begins: `Merlot has less tannins than Cabernet Sauvignon and is less intensely blackcurranty, producing softer, plumper, juicier wines that seem somehow sweeter. Expect flavours of plums, chocolate, mint, violets, spice, mocha, fruit cake and nuts. These flavours make Merlot the ideal red wine for beginners.`

As I worked through the Veritas winners, (only one of which - Hartenberg - features in the Makro line up) I grimaced at the thought of being a merlot novice. Well, perhaps a couple would have offered encouragement; the Alexanderfontein 2007, which is specifically designed for fruity, early drinking and well-executed too, and Guardian Peak 2008, with rich, dark fruit and some mocha notes; enjoyable now but enough structure for a year or so.

Wines that always impress are those where the winemaker has a vision of the end result and knows how to reach that goal. The Fleur du Cap Unfiltered duo, 2006 and 2007 meet that criteria; both will benefit from some ageing, the older wine probably longer than the younger (that's on my Platter experience). Riane Strydom's Dombeya gold medallist is an excellent wine in the modern style that is hers; its ripe bright fruit is reined in by good structure and a classically dry finish. It also shows some welcome personality.

The maiden Creation Merlot 2008 from JC Martin's Hemel en Aarde Ridge cellar, Woolies True to Terroir Koffie Klip 2007, a Frans Smit of Spier number, and Hartenberg 2007 are the others I felt confident about - though the latter's minty quality doesn't appeal to me.

As for the others, they were a mix of so-so (okay but uninteresting) and no-no (overripe, over-extracted).

On the whole I came away feeling more positive than I imagined, though Makro buyers would do well to treat that description with circumspection. Oaking is more modest than in the past; winemakers I spoke to acknowledged they use around 30% to 40% new and in the best wines, tannins are supportive of ripe, velvety fruit. But there's still too much over- ripeness, over-extraction and lack of concentration. I still think there are very few merlots that can successfully stand alone, most find a better home in a blend; I'm sure it's all down to site.

One merlot not on Veritas but which continues to impress comes from Eagles' Nest. The day after the Veritas tasting, I paid a visit to the very nice folk of this soaring Constantia farm (at this time of year it's easily spotted by its bright green wind break netting, much taller than last year, so even more obvious).

I was keen to re-taste the 2007 viognier, which was handed an 'also tasted' by the Wine mag panel, of which I was a member. As I suspected, it must've been a bum bottle, because it's a smart wine, but after tasting the 2008, which includes a meaningful portion of tank-fermented wine, there's no doubt which I prefer. It really is one of the nicest viognier's around, no mean compliment after my moans about the horrors on the Wine magazine tasting. It's expressive, yet not blowsy; has satisfying breadth and texture yet with a light, fresh feel. A winner and excellent partner to spicy foods.

Both the 08 merlot and shiraz are due to be bottled shortly; if they live up to the samples I tried - and no reason they shouldn't - both improve on what is already a high quality level with more concentration, texture and potential. If there was one criticism of the much-awarded 07 shiraz, it was the amount of new oak (unavoidable, as it was matured at neighbouring Constantia Glen, where winemaker, Karl Lambour, would allow no bought in used barrels for fear of Brett); although it has become less noticeable over the past few months, the 08 with only 50% new oak and an unoaked portion is undoubtedly a much finer expression than its predecessor.

Shiraz, merlot and viognier - the current darling of red varieties,  the most controversial and possibly the most fashionable and controversial of white varieties respectively - make up the entire range of this young producer. Some masochists, you might think. Yet with only five vintages behind them, they've shown admirable consistency with annual improvements.

Clearly, Eagles' Nest is heading for heights way above their already elevated vineyards!