Ten years ago, on our first visit to Australia, we were delighted to find so many wineries had decent restaurants as part of their set up. This was a novelty, as were the crowded cellars over weekends, often with entertainment for the many visitors. (When will we learn that weekends are when the majority of winelovers have time to visit and buy?) Restaurants are another matter; over the past five years especially, it has become almost de rigeur for a winery to open a restaurant on the premises.

It requires a different approach from starting a stand-alone restaurant. The building and ambiance need to fit in with the rest of the property and its surrounds; the style and quality of food should complement the wines, whether the list is composed solely of the winery's own label or a broader selection.

If properly thought through, a winery restaurant offers a great marketing opportunity. The visitor's experience of enjoying good food with the wines and great service in pleasant surroundings should encourage repeat visits and/or purchase of the wines.

Two newish winery restaurants which appear to have thought about these things and deserve to do very well for having done so, are Delaire Graff Estate and Fyndraai on Solms-Delta. Recently, I was a guest of both.

Delaire has been - and still is being - transformed at enormous pace. Owner, Laurence Graff, has very clear ideas of what he wants. His somewhat grand and elaborate style inside the restaurant will not be to everyone's taste; for those, a seat near the fold back windows or on the wooden patio encircling the oak trees, affords a wonderful view across Helshoogte to the Simonsberg; inspirational for relaxation and to properly enjoy chef, Christiaan Campbell's delicious dishes. His mantra of freshness and flavour, with as much as possible organically grown on the farm, or locally sourced, is epitomised for me in his Chilled Tomato Essence, a soup made from the tomato liquid alone (they are left suspended in a cloth bag overnight) with buffalo mozzarella and red pepper; vibrant flavours and utterly refreshing.

The wines, now under the care of Morné Vrey, make perfect partners (it would be difficult to go wrong with the Cabernet Franc Rosé, available only from the farm, and one of the most tasty dry rosés around) and ones to watch; there should be some big surprises next year.

Fydraai couldn't be more different, though owner, Mark Solms, is equally focused on what he wants. Since purchasing the property, he has ensured its history is uncovered and the legacies of the past redressed.

The museum, housed in part of the original cellar, traces all the peoples who have lived in this area of Franschhoek right up to Mark Solms tenureship. Most memorable is the wall-piece recording details of the farm's owners and their slaves since the 1600s.

Fyndraai is next door, still part of the old cellar. First-time visitors get a shock as they walk through the door to find a glass floor, revealing the foundations of the original building beneath (the initial instinct is to tip-toe least the glass breaks!); the building's history is usefully outlined on a wall-hanging, tellingly labelled 'Floor of Origin'.

Another history, that of the people now working on the farm and Franschhoekers going back a couple of centuries, is captured through dozens of photos lining the walls.

Both invoke a wonderful sense of individuality and something interesting to peruse whilst waiting for one's food. I hope my photos give some idea of both the transparent floor and face-filled walls.

In keeping with Mark Solms' emphasis on employing members of families living on the farm, there are many, as well as other locals, working at Fyndraai. All underwent a thorough training through Fasie Malherbe's Let's Sell Lobster SETA accredited training system. Service is relaxed yet professional and very much in keeping with the country atmosphere.

The food, thanks to Shaun Schoeman, is outstanding and, not surprisingly, mirrors the local history found throughout, ie Food of Origin! Unusual and delicious was my Oven-baked butternut flan served wirh korrelkonfyt (grape jam), smoked vegetables and roomkaasous (cream cheese sauce) partnered with the Amalie white blend (all the Afrikaans is translated on the back of the menu and every dish comes recommended with one of the Solms-Delta/Astor/Wijn de Caab wines or Karri, an historic honey drink).

A plaas with class that deserves widespread support.

…PS After writing this, I went to see Julie & Julia - the story of Julie Powell, who blogged about her marathon year of cooking all Julia Child's recipes in her Mastering the Art of French Cooking. A heartwarming and funny film that leaves you demanding a yummy meal afterwards. But what really struck me was the unrestrained and unpretentious pleasure all derived from cooking and eating, with wine always on the table too. From their delicious dishes, I sense both Christiaan Campbell and Shaun Schoeman get similar pleasure.