As such above aspects suggest, price alone rarely closes a wine purchase. The perceived value the wine offers, the cellar’s track record, the purchaser’s desire - as well as the wine’s desirability – and degree, if any, of emotional attachment the purchaser might have to the property; any or all of these may play a role.

Frequent commentator on Grape, Kwispedoor, put his/her own slant on the issue when noting on my article, Future Stars, that he/she likes Shannon Vineyards’ wines but feels they are over priced for a property with no track record. (Maybe when the track record is established – as it surely will be – and Kwispedoor has met the delightful Downes family, he/she will have a change of mind!)

If these are role players in purchasing decisions, they also come under discussion when Tim James, Cathy van Zyl and I review new releases, as we did recently.

Sumsaré is a new name on the Cape wine scene (new to the three of us too), although the Erasmus family have lived on the Robertson farm, Wandsbeck for the past 200 years. To celebrate this event, Danie Erasmus had the idea of keeping apart some of his best shiraz from the grapes he delivers to Robertson Winery. The winery obliged and winemaker, Jacques Roux selected six barrels, in which the wine was left for two years. Therein lies one of our main problems – the otherwise pleasant fruit with its supple tannins, is totally overwhelmed by oak – some, if not most of which appears to be American and new, which imparts demonstrative flavours and a sweeter profile out of synch with the wine. It’s doubtful the pair will ever harmonise.

Some winelovers, though experience tells me a declining number, still enjoy such obvious oak. I’m sure the emotional factor for the Erasmus’s friends will see the wine sell, but for us and probably others, more fruit, less oak and a less ambitious price (presumably driven by the oak and the time the wine spent in it?) would benefit this maiden vintage we rate 14.5. Oh, and for those who haven’t yet made the connection, Sumsaré is Erasmus spelt backwards!

By contrast, Hartenberg Estate is not only a well-established name but is recognised for its range of shirazes. The latest standard release, Hartenberg Shiraz 2006 (16) is limpid and still youthful in hue, with expressive, if unshowy dark spice and a suggestion of truffles (fruit-derived complexity rather than an off-odour), such combination leaving a deliciously savoury persistence. Like many Rhône syrahs, it is appealingly delicate but at the same time has a comfortable cushioned feel that adds to its satisfaction (my husband’s UK-based nephew who was staying with us and shared the rest of the bottle commented – completely unprompted – ‘I could drink crates of this!’). The fact that none of us found any need to mention oak speaks for itself – except this wine spent two years in French oak, half of which was new. Unlike the Sumsaré the fruit quality and type of oak are completely compatible. The farm asking price of R130 offers much better value too, even though it’s more expensive.

On paper, Oude Denneboom looks a promising prospect. It’s in the well-regarded Voor Paardeberg ward and the pair of wines we were sent for review - the 2009 Steenbok, a viognier, chenin blanc, chardonnay blend and 2008 Eland, a mix of shiraz, mourvèdre and grenache noir – are styles acknowledged as doing well in the area.

So it is with some sadness and frustration that neither impress, the white less than the red. Steenbok starts positively with interesting juicy apricot, herbal and earthy toned aromas. High and unbalanced alcohol diminishes the effect, leaving a somewhat harsh and sweet, though flavourless impression. Cathy suggests curry might make a redeeming partner. Our 13.5 doesn’t make the farm selling price of R75 look anywhere like good value.

One might say the same of the Eland (14.5) selling for R120 but here the determining factor is style rather than quality. It will appeal to the palate which likes a good dollop of oak (though none is new), simple juiciness and a touch of finishing sweetness. A wine for now with little future potential. Further criticism should be tempered, since the winemaker obviously intends the wine to be as it is; 40% of the grapes went into the fermentation vat uncrushed and his description, which reads; ‘Lush, soft and silky palate. Southern Rhone meets New World flair.’

That said, it’s over-commercial in style for the price tag.

Dornier Merlot 2006 (R86 and 14/20) is a bit of a conundrum mainly because not so long ago I had high hopes for this property. The problem with this wine is that it already seems to be passing its best – with a bricking edge, dry, stalky tannins relieved by a modicum of ripe, plummy fruit. But this too isn’t for keeping. Let’s hope it’s an anomaly and the rest of the range lives up to my high hopes.