The worst tag that could be given to a wine is ‘boring’. Wine has no business being boring;

even if there’s no great complexity, an honest, balanced drop can be entirely enjoyable and satisfying.

Please don’t confuse consistency with boring; consistency of quality and style are to be applauded. There’s no quicker turn off than to find a wine that delights both palate and pocket, only for it to have changed beyond all recognition with the next bottle or vintage you buy. Subtle changes are everything: maybe inoculation with a different yeast, or no yeast; a different oaking regime; small adjustments to the blend or just a new vintage, each of these can titillate the taste buds ensuring a loyal and regular following.

Vintage is an often overlooked difference factor; many South Africans pooh-pooh the idea of any difference between one vintage and the next; ‘We’re sunny South Africa aren’t we, how can one vintage be better or worse than the next?’

There are two major faults to that argument. First, individual varieties respond to conditions differently and secondly, South Africa’s vineyards have spread way beyond the old traditional hub of Stellenbosch; areas such as Elim, Sutherland-Karoo and Plettenberg Bay have their own particular topography, climate, soils, weather, pests and diseases.

Vintage differences are not limited to these factors. Take this year for instance. After an unusually dry, though cold 2011 winter, dryland vineyards, especially in hotter areas such as the Swartland, are struggling. Depending on how well they are looked after or neglected, the yield might be tiny or a complete wipe out.

Of course, one can’t ignore the hand of man or woman (less likely) lacking the sensitivity to read the vintage correctly and over-extract or over-oak the wines, to name but two extant problems.

Despite all these asides, each vintage does have an overall character. For instance in most people’s books 2009 and 2003 are the stars of that decade; both announced their class from an early stage. Also very good were 2005 and 2001 but they have taken longer to realise their class. Each produced big, alcohol-rich reds which have taken several years to settle down (whites in 2001 had more freshness than 2005 which were richer.) I was particularly pleased at my recent vertical with Zelma Long and Phil Freese, to taste how the Vilafonté Series C 2005 is developing so positively though I wouldn’t be tempted to open it yet. Indeed, I’d still give the best 2005s a couple of years before broaching them. The top 2001 whites are at their best but, correctly stored, should hold that best for a further year or two. The more sumptuous 2005 whites I’ve had recently are still drinking well, but possibly lack the backbone to make the 10-year mark. Celebrating their tenth anniversary this year are 2002 whites (I wouldn’t include reds from that year under the term ‘celebrating’, it was one of the poorest red wine vintages), the most stunning I’ve had to date is the gorgeous Chamonix Chardonnay Reserve. My eyes go dewy at the memory of it. I’m sure there are others which give much pleasure.

I also have a serious case of anticipation when I see 2009 on a label, white or red. Some of the more serious reds are now beginning to filter on to the market. One is the Circumstance Cabernet Sauvignon from Waterkloof, which Tim James, guest taster, Ingrid Motteux and I tried at our recent new releases tasting.

Winemaker, Werner Engelbrecht echoes my feelings about the year: he says the exceptional quality is due to two factors: ‘a dramatically lower yield and the length of the growing season. The cool growing conditions allowed for a longer and slower ripening period, which ensured grapes with a high natural acidity and packed with flavour.’

The wine immediately attracts with its youthful, dark yet brilliant hue; it gleams with good health. Thanks to Engelbrecht’s approach of spontaneous ferment, ie without introducing any cultured yeast, there’s more aromatic restraint yet the dark berries associated with cab – blackberries and blackcurrants - are still tellingly pure and inviting. Hurrah too for the grape tannins, the sort I love, giving the wine confident firmness but also with a succulence that you just know will allow them to soften over time, unlike those unyielding dry oak tannins. These grape tannins also lend a savoury edge to the ripely dry finish. Although the label records 14.5% alcohol, the freshness, lack of exaggeration in any component or sugary sweetness suggest a lower level. As with any well balanced wine, it is already delicious but should prosper with around 5 to 8 years ageing. Ingrid’s with me on this and Tim only a tad less enthusiastic. For those who like wines with a bit of restraint your R155 will be well spent.

After the Waterkloof, we found it a little strange that the Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 was somewhat off the pace, both as far as the vintage goes and their usually enjoyable wines.  Firstly, it looks and smells strangely more developed than it should. The flavours are fresher, thanks to sweet fruit (and some residual sugar), assertive acid and firm tannins, all of which can do with some solid mixing and merging; I’m hesitant to say for how long. No, it’s not our style of wine but it might be even KZ fans will be a little disappointed.

I have yet to get a definitive handle of 2010 and 2011, though I believe whites from the younger vintage will be for sooner rather than later drinking.

So, it’s difficult to say how or if the same label’s Shiraz Mourvèdre Viognier 2010 will evolve, though it definitely needs some time to settle its raw edginess. Once that’s happened, the spice and red fruit flavours should please those who like an uncomplicated version of this type of blend. Finally, the Vineyard Selection Chardonnay 2011 which combines what so many winelovers enjoy in a chardy: light buttery, tropical aromas, richer flavours augmented with well-tuned oak and a gently sweetish finish all focused with bright acidity. Preferences were reversed on this wine, Tim being more positive than either Ingrid or I.

Farm prices are R95, R80 and R64 respectively for this Kleine Zalze trio.