Three South African good ‘uns
When I set off for the gym at about 13h15 on Friday afternoon, I knew I wanted to write about some of the wines I’ve tasted recently, but I didn’t know which. After a sweaty 52 minutes and 39 seconds on the cross trainer (I refused to vacate my prime spot and remained glued to the TV set in front of the row of torture machines), I had the answer. As South Africa clinched the One Day International cricket series Down Under beating Ricky Ponting’s team 4-1, my choice would be South African. And there’d be three wines, one for each of the debutants who played like pros, Lonwabo Tsotsobe and Wayne Parnell, and one for their inspirational captain, Johan Botha.
1981 Meerlust Pinot Noir
This iconic estate, established in 1693, has an enviable reputation for the majority of wines in its relatively small line-up but is its Bordeaux blend, Rubicon, and its Pinot Noir that seem to have a special place in South African wine lovers’ hearts. In the glass, this nearly 30-year old jewel was translucent garnet. On the nose, there were cherries, some blood and, in the nicest way possible, rusty nails. The palate had a brisk acidity and hints of cherry fruit, but rogue-ish tannins. This wine – made by now-retired Giorgio Dalla Cia, probably from the ‘old clone’ BK5 – was harvested in the year I matriculated and bought by barrel salesman, Mark Howell, in a Pick ‘n Pay in Johannesburg a few years later for R6.29. It was a pleasure to drink, balanced despite the acidity and tannins.
2000 Ant Hill Pinotage
According to Mark, he paid R7 500 a ton (nine vintages ago!) for these Rooderust grapes and was delighted, when the wine was eventually bottled and released, to achieve a 3½ star rating in Platter. Last Sunday, its rim was starting to brick but its centre was still dark, hinting at the fruit concentration that had marked that vintage. There were curry leaves, molasses and caramel from the oak, mint and soft black fruits on the bouquet, and salt on the palate. The finish was dry, long and satisfying. Mark’s ex-Meerlust winemaker friend had been offered a glass a week before. After a sniff and a sip, he’d appropriated the bottle and refused to share with anyone else at the table. High praise indeed.
2005 Bloemendal Suider Terras Sauvignon Blanc
The people who keep their sauvignon blancs for three to four years – or longer – are as scarce as hen’s teeth, but this Durbanville wine of origin proved that many more of us should try it. It had an attractive straw hue, and a pungent white asparagus and dust bouquet. There was some honeycomb bottle age, and a prominent minerality on both nose and palate, like wet slasto after a Highveld thunder storm. While all of these were positive attributes and I welcomed the opportunity to try this wine at this stage of its life, the acidity stood apart. It went well with dinner, but I think if I had more bottles in the cellar, I’d drink them up soon.
- Cathy Van Zyl's blog
- Login or register to post comments

