It's three minutes after six on a very grey morning and I'm on a highway in Johannesburg headed to my first meeting of the day - which starts at eight - and I'm not overly impressed at having to allow two hours travel time for a journey that should take just half an hour to ensure I'm there on time. In front of me is a stream of red lights; how depressing that there are thousands of others who have to do the same thing. Far more pleasant to reflect on another stream of red I've encountered recently, this being a handful of pinot noirs that almost, almost, detracted from Pete Goff-Wood's cuisine at his bistro and bar in Hout Bay, Wildwoods.

There was an exquisite Comte Georges de Vogüé Musigny 1995, a silky and supple Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche 1996, a strawberry-toned Rust en Vrede Pinot Noir 1984, a rather domineering until paired with the red meat course Bouchard-Finlayson Galpin Peak Tête du Cuvée 2001, a less intense offering from the United Kingdom, Denbies Yew Tree Pinot Noir 2003, and a commanding and far too young Comte Liger-Belair Vosne-Romanée 2007.

None of us at the table were aware that Rust en Vrede had a pinot noir to its credit, and neither did any of the current cellar door staff when I called to enquire about it (are we all just too young?). Fortunately, Platter's 1986 edition (conflict of interest alert) contained a brief reference. The winemaker was then-owner, Jannie Engelbrecht, and John Platter described it as follows: A fruity pungency pervades bouquet of this wine - not instantly liked by all red wine drinkers. Medium-bodied, lightish colour but medium to heavy in alcohol. He gave it three stars. While it wasn't the favourite on the table by a long shot, I certainly welcomed the opportunity to taste it, and revel in a sip or two of history.