Halfway through the informal 'formal' tasting of the six wines making up Die Ouwingerdreeks I left my seat and went over the table in the back corner on which stood, in a wooden box, a complete set of the wines we were being introduced to. Graced by labels featuring artworks by South Africa's most well-known artist, William Kentridge, these have to be the most 'well-dressed' wines in the industry; but that was not what I wanted to see. I rolled over each bottle in its slot to reveal the back/front label hoping that what I wanted was there.

And it was: a line crediting the man (or family) who owned and worked the venerable vineyards from which the grapes were sourced. If that acknowledgement hadn't been there, it would have made a mockery of Eben Sadie's inspirational banter. But because it was,  I tagged the Ouwingeredreeks with a descriptor seldom used these days - 'noble'.

Of course there are valid business and marketing reasons why the Sadie Family would embark on a project like this one, but there is - at its root - a desire to do what is right, to protect, preserve and nurture. It's an adventure of the kind I sometimes watch on BBC in which ordinary people build themselves the most extraordinary homes, usually restoring centuries old buildings using ancient techniques and skills. I am always filled with admiration for their vision and tenacity.

And I have to say I felt the same kind of admiration for the Sadie Family, Rosa Kruger and the custodians of the vine they worked with to produce these wines: Dirk Brand, Mrs Kirstin, Basie van Lill, Henk Laing, Jozua Visser and Johan Nel; as well as Tim James and William Kentridge for whole-heartedly just believing in the project.

May I repeat their names once more? Dirk Brand, Mrs Kirstin, Basie van Lill, Henk Laing, Jozua Visser and Johan Nel; Eben Sadie and Rosa Kruger. I'm looking forward to seeing many more names on many more labels in the future.

Here are my tasting notes; brief, but I was too happy to write much:

Skurfbery 2009:
Pale lemon hue/steely, wet slate, hints bruised apple.
More a sense of presence than simply forthcoming/fruity; excellent extract and flavour; precise. Salt of the earth. My favourite (and alongside, my favourite label). Cellar.

Kokerboom 2009:
Pale/lemon-toned, delicate grassy whiffs, curry leaf, slight pithiness.
Elegant, no fat at all, pretty, poised. Cosmopolitan, worldly, sophisticated. Cellar.

'T Voetpad 2009:
Again white/more forthcoming than the two that preceded it, florals, bees wax, thatch, some tropical notes which contrast nicely its piercing acidity.
Fruitful, quite fun and accessible; yet with aging potential.

Mev Kirsten 2009:
Pale hue/spice, fresh apple, white blossoms, apple pie; actually, this smells like a pet, a much loved pet; beautiful acidity, and some hot summer lazy swimming pool whiffs (maybe the wet slasto?). Will age.

Pofadder 2009:
Pale cherry red/red sucker, strawberry, leafy tannins.
Honest, forthright, joyous - very drinkable now and has uncertain future; may age like some of the great cinsauts, may not.

Eselhoek 2009:
Kelp bed, bruised apple, dull almond, grapey and naartjie peel; lovely slippery palate, soft finish. Will it age? Don't know. The bottle's finished already!