In the arcane challenge of pairing wine and food, Katinka van Niekerk has no equal. Now she’s put it all down in writing.

Together with co-author Brian Burke, Van Niekerk - for years the ultimate and highly-respected oracle on the question of which-dish-with-which-wine - has published a neat little guide. Just out, it will undoubtedly soon be as important a handbook as, say, the Platter wine guide. (Coincidentally having shared publication week.) In fact, the format is particularly clever in that it follows the very shape and clarity of system that makes ‘pocket handbooks’ such good sellers and grateful gifts.

The Food & Wine Pairing Guide is published by Struik no less, and is a thorough piece of work, to understate the obvious. Neat and uncluttered in presentation (demure red cover with gold print; well-designed purity of content-copy type and lay-out), it is pretty comprehensive on the very subject that can send pretentious shudders around a kitchen table.

The beauty of the Van Niekerk/Burke book is that, despite being wide-ranging and accurate (even quite scientific), it never takes an uppity tone. In fact, explaining the process of food and wine pairing, the authors write, right at the start: “... we don’t call them ‘rules’, because we believe that the moment you come across a food and wine pairing rule, you should do your best to break it.”

People who have had the opportunity of experiencing the formidable Katinka in full-theatrical mode at real-life pairings, will recognise her off-beat wit all over the book. Just as you think the going is heavy, respite is handed out.

Here’s the verdict on that perennial puzzle of eggs and wine: Hard-boiled eggs coats taste buds and wine flavours are lost, they write. Runny yolks turn wines ‘nasty’. But, the chances of eating eggs by itself, like in the days of ‘padkos’, are slim, so look at the sauces (a key factor in all wine matching) they’re used in. And what about the famous Burgundian Oeuffs en meurette? Eggs cooked in pinot noir with a glass of the same to match - “Now, there’s a way to have your wine and eat it.” (There is a complete egg section later, ranging from curried to quails eggs.)

The guide starts with a thorough discussion of the basics - the components, effects and inter- and reactions. It sounds like common sense, but we haven’t quite thought about it so well. Part two runs through a detailed list of dishes from starters to cheese (amazingly complete). In-between specific cuisines such as Thai and Indian are covered, while seafood (their warning about sustainability is an apt reality check) and specifics like offal is looked at through the wine glass.

What is particularly pleasing about the new guide is that it reads well, being both informative, amusing and thorough. It is also very South African, but certainly within an international context. If you are at all interested in the glorious, perfect match of food and wine, this is the book to have.