Semillon’s smooth seduction
Maybe because less is always more, under-rated semillon virtually always delivers pleasure.
Unlike those flashy, attention-seeking show-offs on the popular white wine stage - viognier (all boudoir perfume and knock-me-over alcohol), chardonnay (oaky-smoky, boldly buttery), not to mention sauvignon (green and sour) - sémillon is often the quiet persuader.
Many local versions make great glass-of-wine-by-its-own drinks, while most are quiet and subtle compliments to virtually any dish. The understated velvety charms of lemony notes over lanolin silkiness win the applause of both serious and casual wine drinkers. Semillon sometimes seems to play both solemnly and frivolously. An true all-rounder. It also ages rather gently; better than most other whites.
And, of course, there’s its pivotal role in a supporting act for the highly-strung sauvignon. (Needless, also to point out its classic starring role in its noble rot robe.)
South Africa has a wine history of semillon (‘groen druif’). Some old existing vineyards survive here and there. Eben Sadie’s Kokerboom 2009 in the new Ouwingerdreeks, launched recently, pays due respect. (The wine is a blend of white and rare red semillon.)
Franschhoek has prided itself on nurturing local old semillon vines. One such shining example is Basil and Jane Landau’s totally enchanting Landau du Val 2008. From bush vines planted in 1905 the yield is, naturally, extremely limited. But what a gorgeous wine, gently perfumed and waxy. It stays with you long after the glass is done.
Other semillons to check out are, of course, Marc Kent’s bright-as-a-button Boekenhoutskloof, Constantia Uitsig’s (probably their best wine), Cape Point and Nitida. David Nieuwoudt has a zippy Cederberg Private Cellar 2010 on the upcoming CWG auction, while the Nederburg auction this year features a Zonnebloem Limited Edition 2007. You can bet that these will not sell for outrageous prices - and deliver great joy to their ultimate drinking owners.
- Melvyn Minnaar's blog
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