Pinotage has been staging a bit of a comeback, with several top-end producers launching limited-volume premium selections at price-points, which even three years ago would have suggested that the wine had finally addled their brains.

Everyone knows Beyers Truter (formerly of Kanonkop and now, for more than a decade, at Beyerskloof) takes pinotage more seriously even than rugby. It's no surprise to find the ringleader of the p inotage renaissance launching wines which retail for between R350 and R500.

That they have been produced in quantities of more than a few hundred cases and that the first vintage at least (of memorably rather than vinously named Diesel) has sold out, seems to have made a point.

At much the same time Kanonkop launched its special cuvée Black Label at the not-uncheeky price of R1000 a bottle. Given that proprietor Johann Krige pronounced it sold out within a few hours, you have to believe there's gold in them thar hills.

These are not the membership rights to some secret society. The Kanonkop - available in smaller volumes (but at a much higher price) than the Beyerskloof - is already being traded in a secondary market, indicating upward price potential even at R1000 a bottle. Half of Beyerskloof's 2007 vintage was exported, suggesting a real rather than a cosmetic international demand. More importantly, it's a sign that once the sometimes aggressive tannins of pinotage are properly managed, there's an international market for its earthy flavours and smoky aromatic notes. If players like Beyerskloof and Kanonkop are willing to live with less revenue from exports than from local sales, at current exchange rates, they will be able to short the domestic trade and deliver crucial price support at a time when suddenly everyone is being upbeat about pinotage.

They are also not the only players in the super-premium end of the pinotage game. Tokara produced a tiny volume from the 2007 vintage, and promptly bagged the Pinotage Trophy at this year's Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show. Since the property only has 500 pinotage vines producing a mere 130 cases, it was never going to be cheap. Since it pipped the three other gold medal candidates for the top prize, whatever bottles come to market will undoubtedly trade in the rarefied atmosphere which the Kanonkop Black Label and the Beyerskloof Diesel call home.

Of the other gold medallists at the Trophy Wine Show, the Lanzerac Pionier 2007 is also positioned at the price of a lesser Bordeaux classed growth. Unless there has been collusion (highly unlikely) between pinotage producers who have seen the gap at the high octane price level, it's a fair bet this will be one of the most active segments in SA's deluxe red wine in the next few months.

Happily they are not the only pinotages worth drinking. The other gold medallists from the Trophy Wine Show - the Stellenzicht Golden Triangle 2007 and the Manley 2005 are obviously both very good wines. I am also mightily impressed with the Springfontein Jonathan's Ridge unfiltered 2008, the Chamonix Greywacke 2007 and the Laroche l'Avenir Grand Vin 2007. All have managed the tightrope walk between the earthy pinotage character, the sometimes rustic tannins and the almost pungent fruit of the pinot noir antecedents.

Other pinotages worth tracking down include the unshowy but very classy 2008 from Durbanville Hills. It is aromatic, supple, spicy and remarkably accessible. Lately I have found several of the reds from this cellar softer and less angular. Whatever has led to this focus on texture has paid off when it comes to the standard release pinotage.

Finally, though I don't particularly like mint-eucalyptus notes in wines, the Welgegund 2009 has found a following: it offers spice rather than texture, aroma rather than palate dimension. This in itself is a turnaround for pinotage. In the bad old days you tried to hide the tell-tale varnishy whiffs and pulverise the tannins. Dr Perold's chance invention has clearly come a long way.