Grape

A two-bristle whippersnapper at Wine mag

It's with renewed dismay that I couldn't find Michael Fridjhon's article in the monthly – Wine Mag, has he been culled as was Jancis in tightening the purse strings?  Regardless – Pendock is still there to supply laughs and reference to bygone philosophers and the like.

Now before I get lambasted – as I probably will for making the following assumptions and statements, allow me to clarify that I think the following are probably better than sliced bread, in no particular order: Chris Mullineux, Chris Williams, Rudiger Gretschel ( if you don't know who he is, you should!), Duncan Savage, Trizanne Pansegrouw, Gottfried Mocke. The list pretty much runs for another paragraph or so. (The above list will clarify itself.)

There's a saying that new brooms sweep clean. That they certainly do, but what if the broom is short a couple of bristles, so to speak? The new kid on the block at the monthly is a delightful personality called Jeanri-Tine van Zyl ( I have no idea how to pronounce her name) – if you want more information on her just Google her name, she happily posted her complete cv for all and sundry to have a gander at. In short- 25 years of age, a BA in Media studies from Free State University with a BPhil in journalism from Stellenbosch University – circa 2006.

Now – I fail to notice any training or affiliation with wine societies, courses or the like. But three years spent in Stellenbosch probably qualifies everyone as a connoisseur.  If the inside jacket is anything to go by she is listed as being " Junior Journalist/ Web Editor", yet I fail see any listing of "Senior Jounalist". The May issue sports no less than five articles written by junior – ranging from accessing tasting rooms, that includes the unenviable task of rating quality (would that be the tasting rooms quality or the wine??? ), and value – now, now up to accessing restaurants and game lodges.

Big call if ever there was one for a 25 year old from the Free State with what seems to be minimal training or experience in wine to judge value – Neil Pendock is just now tipping his toes into that bathtub.

Now clarity on my list of names above – those are all youngsters, some maybe not as young as they use to be, but they all have been around the block a few times – and I have a greatest respect for their skills and talents – regardless of age.

Some priceless snippets: Wine Magazine if you please

Oak Valley        "Value:3/10- over priced, under delivers"
                         "Quality:4/10 - although Platter's will disagree." (feeling slightly insecure about our judgement are we?)

Paul Cluver        "Ambience:5/10- at least "the table" is unique"

Cape Chamonix "Quality:5/10 – disappointing that the reserve range was not available"

Cabriere            "Value:3/10 – no true value finds here"

Altydgedacht     "Value:6/10 – you can find better for cheaper"
                        "Ambience:4/10- too much tat and too little ambience"

Diemersdal  –    they got a big thumbs up except for ambience – which is quite important it seems

Now I am all for being honest and not sugar coating – heck I am writing this. But, and this is a big but – working for a magazine, which dare I say is not  on the most stable of legs – as is all printed media currently, the last thing you need is a gun slinger who barely knows how to handle an air pistol.

I shudder to think what her review would be of a place such as Chateau Margaux, book your visit 3 months in advance, dress code on arrival, amazing gardens, cold a sterile tasting environment, 60 odd year old lady with Hermes scarf, poring ONE wine, not for sale and when you do find it – about R2000- R10000 / bottle, vintage dependent.

Or the Mondavi reserve tasting, which should tickle her fancy – personally appointed server- private tour – plush leather seats with butler serving up to six different vintages of Cabernet and possibly To Kolan Sauvignon blanc, if you're so inclined. But the value would be a problem – R1000 to R3000 a bottle does seems like a rip off.

Mr Eedes will probably point out that she has attended tasting courses, sits in on Wine mags tasting panels to have her pallet sharpened etc etc etc. But I for one don't believe this youngster is up to the task of playing judge, jury and executioner – just yet.

Re: A two-bristle whippersnapper at Wine mag

From Poor Tom!:
I vociferously agree with this Old Vines chap. Besides the fact that Ms Van Zyl lacks wine credibility, she has a blatantly negative and snide writing style, especially when writing that tasting room stand-off piece. This lack of tact and snideness was highlighted at the beginning of the year by Lammershoek in a letter to Whine, their letter was however, shot down faster than a clay-pigeon at the Olympics. Protectionism, stroking the ego or just trying to give some sort of credibility to those lacking?

I've also heard from unfortunate souls that served them (they travel in groups these bunch), that the way in which these cellar door comparissons are done is very "MTV Punked!" in style - highlighted by the calling card left afterwards in the questbook of "You've just been cellar doored!" How very mature and civil.

Ignorance is bliss, someone once told me. The unfortunate party in this sad tale of youthful bliss, high heels & fizz is once again the customer, who has to make up his/her mind based on a journalist’s (sic) dripple that should be boldly accompanied with a Learner's sign on the page.

 

From Terence Steenkamp:
I'm in the media where we have to deal with fogeys who hang onto their little domains with all their worth. What's to say that someone with minimal training, like Jeanri-Tine van Zyl, is not up to the task of detecing the myriad flavours and smells in wine. Our ability to enjoy wine is after all dependant on our life experiences, and the accompanying associations we make with things we've smelled and tasted. I think it would be foolish to think that hear quarter century on earth has not shown her enough to have life experience.

As for judging a tasting room's ambience, ability to deal with customers and stocking the products they so proudly market, surely you don't need a qualification on gilded paper? The Cellar door shootouts are researched anonymously and from the perspective of Joe Soap. I have been on a few with Jeanri (on Saturdays when the farms are busiest), so I know first-hand her commitment to assessing the complete experience (while the rest of us get more and more sloshed).

You shouldn't doubt her talent, nor her commitment or fairness. In fact, the wine industry needs younger blood, people who enjoy wine for the sake of enjoying it - without renewal it stagnates, which is never a desired situation.

Regards from an avid, uneducated wine lover.

 

From Concerned of Malmesbury:
Does Wine magazine in any way still concern the subject its title refers to? We’ve had weddings, dogs, you name it. Instead of publishing anything readable about wine (such as Michael Fridjhon and Jancis Robertson used to, before being axed), we now have a socialite lite-weight on heaven-knows-what, with the actual comments on the tastings (the few that there are, relegated to the outback) down to notes. Could a gardening column be far away? And what about wildlife pictures? (They fill pages so comfortably.)

If you think May was the worst ever, look out for the curry issue in June. Half-hearted Fair Lady readers might find something to read, but wine drinkers? Could the magazine be on its last legs?

 

From Tim James:
It's not quite correct to say that Michael Fridjhon was "culled" or "axed" (though that's what happened to Jancis's syndicated column – somethat to her pique). As I reported on this site some months ago, the Wine mag columnists were asked to take a pay cut (things are clearly desperate enough that a few hundred rands makes a difference). Michael declined to do so.

 

From Vieilles vigne:
Sorry Tim, if it came across as if Michael was asked to leave. Those in the know are well aware of the situation that confronted many columnists and the personal choices they had to make. Terence I appreciate your sentiments regarding "young blood" thus my article stated very clearly that age is not the primary concern here. More the "lack of experience" and the power of the pen. Being flippent and blatant is fine – being sarcastic and self obsessed about opinion is not. Unless you can back it up with truckloads of experience which no one can question – which is most definitely not the case here.

I do not see eye to eye with most comments from Poor Tom – he is a real battle-axe for consumer rights and fighting overpriced wines – even he finds the style just too caustic and self centered! There has been a flury of journo-related essays and posts the past couple of weeks and one from Jancis Robinson (and rolling your eyes about us talking

about the "old guard" again doesn't absolve her from being in the top five most influencial wine personalities in the world) and the responsibility so-called wine journalist have in keeping their opinions within the realm of civilized – see in this lovely electronic age – journos can actually be taken to task within hours of publishing, no more mister editor deciding what letter gets answered a month later.

There is a very good reason AA Gill is the highest paid columnist in the UK: ascerbic – check, sarcastic without a doubt – check, a complete and utter understanding and 30 years of experience in his field – check.

Could she be a very good taster, I would not know, it seems your three years in Western Cape has endowed you with the skills to judge, who has the skill – very impressive. She could possibly be the best taster this side of the moon, unfortunately going by the reviews of quality and value I very much doubt it – more likely a case of " taste nice at a better price".  

As for "an elderly gentleman being fascinated by a rusty plough" being a problem is case in point – is that elderly gentleman not a customer? is he not enjoying his experience?  Reporting is reporting, giving a report-back of your own personal feelings and obviously tremendous good taste is a different thing – we need to get to know her like we know AA before most would clamour to read the next month’s instalment.

 

From Tony:
It must be pointed out that we are talking here of a young, inexperienced and probably pretty ignorant junior reporter, being given too important a task without sufficient guidance and control. If there's a fault, and there does seem to be one, it must at least be shared with the editor of the magazine (who gives her assignments and presumably passes her copy). And then in turn it must be shared by the hard-nosed bosses of Ramsay media who are starving the editor of adequate resources and driving the magazine into the mire of trivial nonsense. As was implicitly asked earlier – where's the magazine's Senior Journalist? I feel a bit sorry for J-T having to take the klaps alone!

 

From Fred Barnes:
If there is one regret I have about wine, it is my having wasted so much time listening to critics. So when I hear words like "experience" and "influential" in a vinous context, I immediately tune off. Case in point: Vigne mentions Jancis Robinson.  It is pretty clear to me, anyway, that she and that other "world's most important wine personality"  Michael Broadbent have for years now been duped by Hardy Rodenstock. Heck Broadbent may even be criminally liable for the stuff he pedalled. So, I for one, would rather read the comments of a young inexperienced journalist, than some seasoned pro.  Being young means there's less likelihood they're on the take, and whilst they may be naive, at least it's honest naivety. I'll decide which wines I like and which ones I don't. And it sure as heck won't be influenced by sighted wine tastings from seasoned wine critics.

 

From CA Bernet:
We all would like to see young people enjoying and buying wine - not so? We already have the female wine-maker awards - some of them have been very young! Here we have a lady Jeanri-Tine doing her bit for wine and we have sniding remarks on her style of writing! In most of the shootouts she actually bought wine and took it home to be enjoyed - by her friends! Spreading the gospel so to say. We say people must enjoy the wine they are drinking but we do not like it if ms van Zyl says she did not enjoy a particular wine. The hallowed JP has received a lot of criticism on the extraordinary number of 4 star wines in the guide - yet when someone downscores the wines we are up in arms! Come on - would you believe the comments of a restaurant critic if the visit to the establishment was not anonymous? The whole purpose of the shootout is to reflect what the general public can expect from a visit to a cellar. If the service is different to a young poppie than to a middle aged man then surely the blame is on the cellar. If they would only serve reserves to "deserving" guests I would liketo know it! To me journalism is about honesty - not a sugarcoated pill!

 

From Emile Joubert:
Vieilles vigne is perhaps too qualified a wine expert to comment on the requirements of the average magazine reader. For surely this vinous specimen would otherwise know that the way in which facts are conveyed to a reader are becoming increasingly important in today's world where readers and consumers generally have an attention span shorter than a port cork.

Jeanri-Tine has brought a much needed draft of fresh air to Wine magazine. Believe or not, not all of us who enjoy wine are intrigued by lengthy articles on the influence of limestone soils on post-fermentation Chardonnay flavours, the magnificent merits of a hidden 82-year old hectare of Semillon that yields an orgasmic 1,23 tons of fruit or the influence of medium-toast Hungarian barrels on virus-free Shiraz.

Lifestyle publications without life in their copy are destined to fail. Jeanri-Tine's laid-back style, her sharp observations and attention to detail - spiced with a bit of opinion which is not overdone – are entertaining and, well, cool. This anorak obsession with qualifications is pathetic and smacks of the old school approach wine writing can do without. The ability to share an experience and a special moment with the reader in an engaging and informative manner is a skill more important to the future of wine writing than a wall full of certificates.

 

From Tim James:
I'm sorry to see Emile getting close to the anti-intellect position that it matters less what is said than how it is said - that might be OK for the more vapid lifestyle magazines, but should not be OK for wine journalism. No-one would deny the necessity of a journalist successfully engaging with his or her aufience. And there has been no criticism here as far as I can see of J-T's writing skills.

As for qualifications – I think Emile misses the point. The requirement is not certificates, but some demonstrable expertise (including certificates, or experience, or whatever) from someone whose comments can affect the livelihood of some winery. As far as I know, for example, Michael Fridjhon has few or no certificates, but few would doubt his right to make judgements on many aspects of wine, even if they disagreed with them.

And I also hope that it might even be possible to write about old vineyards, or the role of terroir or oaking, in an engaging as well as genuinely informative and well-informed manner. Accuracy and appeal are not by definition mutually exclusive. But a pleasing style is not a valid excuse for irresponsible journalism, for getting things wrong, and for even causing unwarranted damage. (NB these are general points, not directed at Ms van Zyl.)

 

From Dante:
Very interesting is the view regarding style over factual content. Indeed to appreciate the facts about Wine should not make you an anorak - only educated and interested - which can only be a good thing. Nor does it need to be more boring a read than a superficial story on dogs. Got to be with Tim on this one.

I am not one to appreciate the Jeanri-Tine articles myself. Don't really agree with the cellar shootout views, but then of course I go for the wine and not the ambience of the room - although good service is nice. So for the less experienced traveller this may well be very interesting and informative, which is definitely not a bad thing. But I also wonder where

the hell the senior journalist is, as surely she can't be expected to be a trusted reference on everything at once - respect needs to be gained.

Although according to Emile this appears not to matter as long as she relates a personal opinion in an engaging writing style. Then all is well in the world of informative and critical journalism. But it is very interesting this thread seems to be generating the most comments ever on the site, so everyone seems willing to share an opinion - does this mean she can take over Pendock's wine writing crown now? And perhaps at least in some respects the fresh air comment is then justified.

However I will also not be renewing my subscription - Jeanri-Tine is not the reason, but the fact that WINE magazine is clearly not about Wine anymore is. Or do I just prefer the stale air to fresh? To drive away your subscribers in the hope of attracting buyers from (other) settled lifestyle magazines is a dangerous ploy and I think will not succeed with a lack of experienced resources and a clear vision. But if they can prove me wrong, good luck to them. And perhaps this is just a case of a last chance ditch to avoid the culling axe.

 

Christian Eedes:
It is flattering that WINE magazine's editorial policy and its resultant performance in the market place has elicited such vociferous debate. It will interest both supporters and detractors that according to the Audited Bureau of Circulations, the title's average paying circulation between January and March 2009 was 9 353. This compares to 8 967 for the equivalent period in 2008 and 8 606 in 2007.
 

  From The Wine Taxi:
I love to see a big of hearty debate as much as the next person, but really, this is a tired topic. I don't say this because of the ongoing WINE vs 'the rest' scrum or the thinly veiled snipes at each other. I say this because the debate needs to be seen well outside the realm of wine. It is inevitable that the traditional media broaden their target market appeal, as the costs of physically printing a publication are prohibitive in the face of online alternatives. I can't see them selling enough copies in South Africa if their focus is strictly wine related, as the number of people who really want to read 80 pages of technical analysis are insufficient to warrant it.

The pool is not big enough at a cover price of R24.95 to sustain the publication and  advertisers willing to part with their cash are disappearing faster than corruption dockets in a police station. And how could they justify increasing their cover price in the current climate without losing more readers? It is a slippery slope for all the excellent intentions of Christian and his crew. My impression is that they have not been able to bridge the gap effectively.

I see a publication such as Good Taste as the leading example of a well balanced wine-oriented publication. I would be interested to see the trend of subscriptions to WINE magazine over the last couple of years. My humble suggestion - embrace your new (good looking) website aggressively and make that your primary area of focus. Publish a hard copy quarterly with properly investigated articles that probe points of topical relevance. There are too many paper publications trying to be all things to everyone - claim your ground and defend it.

My 2 cents more to the pot.


From Peter:

Neat idea Wine Taxi. I would subscribe to a service that included a quarterly magazine plus web access which includes restricted privileges, to subscribers only, such as an up to date wine database - i.e. without all the obsolete wines etc. I know nothing about selling advertising space, but it is possible advertisers might consider packages based on magazine space plus website space plus additional space for subscriber aspects of the website. Selling web ad space seems to be a dog of a job but with a package who knows.

Re: A two-bristle whippersnapper at Wine mag

The speed with which the character of the South African wine scene changed at the beginning of the post-apartheid era in the mid 1990s was impressive, but it seems to me that a new and even more exciting chapter in South African wine has begun. What we saw in the late 1990s and early years of this century was a gradual improvement in the quality of wines produced by some of the old names, and the establishment of many exciting new wine regions.

Re: A two-bristle whippersnapper at Wine mag

I recognise this blogg was compiled a year ago,so now the dust has settled are you still of the same opinion? I look at this from a fresh sense of perspective as I only arrived in the Western Cape about two years ago.I hear your thoughts on experience but I had a similar experience when I was a Junior Engineer some 20-30 years ago.

I was constantly lambasted,sneered upon and generally dismissed by senior engineers in my Field of Food Processing Equipment ,so now at 46 years old ,these days I really try hard not to be ageist. The only way anyone; be he or she a Technician or an Editor for that matter, is to 'learn by your mistakes'.

As for Jeanri-Tine (I can pronounce her lovely characterful  name) well,I have read a few of her articles and the last on Namibia is beautifully written. This young lady has a talent for writing and reporting on her experiences. I really would say she is indeed a 'Breath of fresh air'

'Time waits for no man' enjoy peoples foibles and of course tell someone you disagree with their comments but poking silly 'Two bristled whipper snapper' comments at a human being just comes across as infantile writing. Enjoy your beautiful wines and have a few  Irish and Scots Whiskies while your at it !

'Slangevar'

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Re: A two-bristle whippersnapper at Wine mag

This is definitely a lot to deal with in the future. I am not sure how to deal with this.
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