Grape

That old print media

It seems that Wine mag's loose cannon is still trundling around the winelands letting off wounding shots. I'm not referring to the results of the latest tasting either. That, with its relegation of wines like Morgenster and Constantia Glen to the lowest rungs, is just the sort of thing we should be used to by now from these big tastings.

No, it's Jeanri-Tine van Zyl once again, causing offence. In this case to Oscar Foulkes of Cloof. To be honest, not knowing Cloof, I have little idea how justified the stern critic was in this case, but going by her track record, as discussed at some length a while back in Open space, I tend to give Oscar the benefit of the doubt. You can read his rather poignant defence on his blog, In pursuit of pleasure (the entry for last Friday, July 17).

Interestingly it is maybe something to do with the concept of the Cellar door shoot out that is offensive, if it's not just the junior reporters assigned to the task. The owner of an important winery (one who doesn't strike me as quick to anger) told me recently that, since the publication some time ago of a report by (I think) Jeanri-Tine's predecessor, he no longer supplies free samples to the magazine for their tastings: "If they want it, they can buy it!"

Talking of Wine, I believe that its readers can look forward to the return of Michael Fridjhon as a columnist. I reported back in January that he had left, when faced with the prospect of a pay cut. But clearly the magazine has been understanably feeling its intellectual content rather too drastically diminished and are willing to scrape around for the few hundreds rands it wanted to save by reducing his rate-per-word. Perhaps Michael even insisted on a massive increase as the price for his return, I don't know. Nor do I know whether other columnists will be stuck with the reduction they agreed to. Nor even whether Jancis Robinson, whose syndicated column also got the chop (somewhat to her indignation), is to be grovellingly asked to return.

Another owner/winemaker I chatted to recently, Jean-Vincent Ridon of Signal Hill winery, has some interestingly motivated sympathy for Wine magazine – in fact for any print magazine ealing with something like wine, unless it can offer something really special. J-V has apparetnly been doing some advertising on web venues like Google and Facebook, with remarkable success, he says, at a fraction of the cost of an ad in Wine. He's even selling to places in South Africa which he hadn't even known existed – like Klerksdorp, from where someone ordered a case of wine.

As one who (I shamefacedly confess, or proudly boast), must be one of the few internet-users in the world would not even know how to access Facebook, let alone have any desire to, I recounted this (via Skype – you see I'm not entirely without resources!) to a wine-industry pal recently. In his reply, this friend asked if I knew Jean-Vincent's Facebook page. "He has a bevy of gorgeous women who bill and coo over every posting he makes. It's terrific entertainment. You have to join FB just to follow this ritual. In French, of course, much of the time." I can't give you the link, I fear, but I dare say you know it or know very well how to find it....

 

Wine Mag

I detect a shift at Wine magazine. There are very well respected writers contributing. The lifestyle format seems to have settled into wine and complementary food articles.

Victor Strugo, Anna Trapido and Lannice Snyman on the food side doesn’t get any better.

The Wine mag online database seems to be a lot cleaner, with the older wines (which are no longer available) dropped.

And so to J-T van Z and the cellar door shoot-out. I well remember a trip to Villiera in the early eighties; grand day out, attentive, fresh, informative, gorgeous food and a satisfied burp or two. (Anachronism notwithstanding, if she had given them anything less than 9/10 I would immediately have cancelled my subscription.)

Opening a wine cellar tasting facility in the back of beyond, where visitors have to bounce along a poorly maintained dirt road (the fault of the roads department not the wine cellars), is a challenge. Intrepid explorers need to know that there are compelling reasons for making the journey; shock absorbers, new dentures and petrol ain’t cheap any more.

Having just read the latest shoot-out, it seems that the 2 wine cellars visited in the Darling area were a degree or two off the mark. I wonder if producers in more remote areas might not be better served by combining resources to showcase their wines.

A comfortable, well run and knowledgeable environment, with a good restaurant to sustain famished travellers, somewhere closer to a tarred road. Trying to go it alone in straightened times is a difficult road (no pun intended) to travel.

 

Re: That old print media

 

WINE magazine exists to serve consumers and not the trade. In particular, the Cellar Door Shoot-out series is based on the overall experience at tasting rooms, guiding readers in their choice between making the journey to the winery or leaving it to their local retailer to make the purchase recommendation. It is our contention that winery facilities and service have gone unscrutinised for too long.

Regarding the results of the magazine tastings, Mr James implies that these are often flawed, the “relegation to the lowest rungs” of Morgenster 2005 and Constantia Glen 2007 in the Bordeaux-style category tasting report in the September issue clearly being especially hard for him to comprehend.

WINE magazine has a policy of complete transparency when it comes to tasting results and visitors to the Grape website might be interested to know individual scores and tasting notes for the two wines in question.

The panel involved consisted of myself (CE), wine writer Angela Lloyd (AL), Francois Rautenbach , head of the wine division at Singita Game Reserves (FR), experienced taster James Pietersen (JP) and Carrie Adams, partner and wine buyer at leading Johannesburg retailer Norman Goodfellows (CA).

FINAL RATING: TWO STARS
Morgenster 2005 (R300 a bottle)
CE: 15/20 “Dark red in colour. Cassis, some leafiness on the nose. Good fruit expression, clean and pure. Relatively soft tannins”.
FR: 14/20 “Slightly developed in colour. Closed nose, organic leafy hints. Fruit not expressive, oxidized character. Palate drying out, tired”.
AL: 12/20 “Opaque, advanced red rim. Over-ripe, oxidized, squishy, sweet”.
JP: 13/20 “Browning. Oxidation in evidence. Lean entry. Prominent oak. Hard finish”.
CA: 15.5/20 “Loads of tarry oak on the nose. Very sweet fruit on palate but well balanced and good structure.”

FINAL RATING: TWO STARS
Constantia Glen 2007 (R350 a bottle)
CE: 14/20 “Shy nose. Prominent oak, not very complex”.
FR: 14.5/20 “Sweet fruit and vanillins. Open but not complex. Rounded sweet fruit entry, lacking in palate weight, short finish”.
AL: 14/20 “Opaque, dull in colour. Very ripe, not over-oaked. Sweet fruit and tannins in balance. Won’t benefit from ageing”.
JP: 14/20 “Caramel and toast oak on nose. Soft and easy drinking. Sweet, lots of oak derived character. Dying”.
CA: 14/20 “Quite a jammy nose. Apparently high residual sugar but at least clean!”

I appreciate that many have high regard for these two impeccably well marketed labels and will be nonplussed to see these wines under-perform. It is never our intention to do unnecessary harm to brands that have been built up at great cost and with much effort, but ultimately our tastings (conducted blind, labels out of sight) are undertaken to help the consumer make a more informed purchase decision.

No tasting system is perfect but surely Diemersdal Private Collection 2006 and Warwick Trilogy 2005 which both received the magazine’s ultimate accolade of 5 Stars in the same issue are more sensible purchases than the wines that Mr James seems to favour?

 

Re: That old print media

Wearing my hat as a part-time tour guide, specialising in winelands tours, I differ from Tim James on the value of the magazine's Cellar Door Shoot-Out.

Take a case in point - the recent comparison of Simonsig and l'Avenir, the latter being a winery that I had not previously visited with guests on tour. I found that Jeanri-Tine's very much more favourable assessment of l'Avenir pretty close to the mark, and more than once over the years I have been irritated by the hit and miss approach to service and product knowledge at Simonsig. Sad - because I rate their products in most categories and in most years as at least the equal of those of l'Avenir.

The Cloof saga is another matter, and I readily admit to not having visited either of the wineries that J-T van Z reviews in the current issue. Many wineries in the Cape winelands are inaccessible for a whole variety of reasons - Cedarberg being the most obvious case of a cellar that is effectively off-limits to all but those with "Camps Bay tractors. In this case the problem of accessibility would be solved by having a wine boutique for sales and tastings either in the closest town or on the main road, perhaps at a farmstall. In the Robertson Wine Valley such a solution has recommended itself to several establishments, including Le Chasseur (which is difficult of access) and Bon Courage and van Loveren (which are not).

Tim James

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