Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
The mysterious discrepancy I noted in an addition to my last article between the analysis given for the Chenin Challenge winner in Wine mag and for the same wine on the Klein Zalze website is explained. They are not the same wine. There was no intention to deceive the competition organisers, but it's ... a pretty odd situation to say the least. If you bought the wine on its initial release you got an entirely different wine from the one that won the competition.
In fact there were three separate bottlings of Klein Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc, all of them different, as explained by Kleine Zalze co-owner Kobus Basson (see his letter posted as a comment to the article).
July 2008 bottling: This came from grapes "picked before the early rain of the 2008 harvest". The residual sugar was 2.8 grams per litre, and the alcohol 14.65. (As per the website information, and the information that all the online dealers are quoting.) It amounted to about 30% of the eventual total production, and 80% of it was exported.
September 2008 bottling: This and the third batch were from a post-rain harvest. Clearly the grapes were very much higher in sugar now. This bottling has "an alcohol near to 15 and RS near 6" says Mr Basson.
October 2008 bottling: Alcohol 15.18, residual sugar 7.2g/l. This bottling constituted 5022 bottles out of the total 35 372.
That is, the wine that won the Challenge is a mere 14% of the wine bearing the label "Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2008". Put the other way round, 86% of wines with that label are not the same as the winner. On the strength of that, are Kleine Zalze claiming that "Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2008" won the Chenin Challenge?
Consumers can decide if this, presumably entirely legal, procedure is ethically acceptable.
I notice that the picture of the bottle in Wine mag shows a number of award stickers on it - including that of the International Wine Challenge. I wonder if this and the other awards were won with the same bottling that the picture relates to? I wonder if the bottles currently on the shelves carry those award stickers, and if they are the same wine that the stickers were won for. If not, that is a significant misrepresentation of the true situation.
If it is the case that the packaging misrepresents the awards, I'd say that it is more than regrettable practice by one of our leading producers. I can't say, anyway, that I think very highly of the idea of three very different bottlings being sold under essentially the same label either. If Kleine Zalze had been open about this procedure in the interview they gave to Wine mag, it would be less of a problem. In the absence of such an open explanation (that the winning wine was a very small percentage of the wine under this label), many winelovers will have been deceived.
Those winelovers can decide precisely how this all relates to the scandal over Wither Hills in 2006, when there were identically labelled but separate bottlings of their 2006 Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. One blend, it seems, went to the public, the other to critics and competitions (see the Wine Spectator story on this). I don't think that this is anything like that, but the Wither Hills scandal should have warned Kleine Zalze about the dangers of separate bottlings of a wine going into public competitions where they will be closely scrutinised.
- Tim James's blog
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Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Wine is a very complicated medium. Especially for the consumer who mostly is neither a Master of Wine nor an oenologist. He has to choose from ten thousands of wines of different countries, areas, varietals, styles, prices – and an award or medal on the bottle definitely helps. It helps the consumer to choose and the producer or distributor to sell.
Because it works we face in Europe an amazing inflation of awards and medals from all over the world.
This especially since the European Commission has banned their list of controlled and recognized awards.
Check the sales folder of European retailers or discount chains. It looks like the medal collection of the United States Olympic Team.
And who knows what is serious and what is not?
The International German Wine and Spirits Association BWSI tries to monitor the market in order to secure the legislation as well as the good practices of competition.
Recently they discovered a South African Sauvignon Blanc wine awarded with a Michelangelo silver medal in a discount chain at 6.99 EUR. Producer is a very well-known winery and Estate in the area of Durbanville.
The Association’s first routine control shows that this wine sold in Germany seems to be labelled differently than the producer’s awarded wine sold in South Africa. And it is of Origin Coastal Region, other than the awarded Sauvignon Blanc which seems to be of Origin Durbanville Hills.
Beginning of December 2009 the Association asked Michelangelo for clearing - without any substantial response so far.
Some producers might look at it as a kind of “petit crime” to use awards for batches which do not correspond 100% to the awarded lot. But there is no doubt:
It is fraud! And as any fraud it will be only a question of time until it will be discovered and then disclosed to the public.
This is like playing with fire next to a petrol tank.
Can anyone of you imagine what it would mean for the reputation of South African wine if the public press (and they love this kind of topic) picked it up?
Producers and distributors – in spite of all egoism – should not forget that they also carry a responsibility to protect the interest of a whole industry.
It is a fact: serious awards are and will only be such of organisations which are able and willing to control the transparency of the producer, the number of printed awards and medals and the identity of the tasted and labelled lots.
Yes, it is a lot of work, but it is the only way to long-term reliability and existence.
Guys who do not respect rules, laws and good practices of competition and therefore risk the reputation of awards as well as the reputation of the whole industry – no matter who they are – should be banned from tastings. That’s the only way to credibility and sustainability.
Christoph Mack, Vice President International German Wine and Spirits Association BWSI, Wiesbaden, Germany. www.wein-spirituosen-verband.de
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
@ Tim: did you check other top performers as well?
I notice a small difference at Graham Beck between website and WineMag:
ANALYSIS:
Alcohol: 13. 62 % vol
Residual Sugar: 5.21 g/l
pH: 3.41
Total Acid: 6. 57 g/l
Alc 13.23% RS 5.5g/l TA 6.8g/l pH 3.35
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Strictly to the law- if BLOT- registered it will harvest 2010 Shiraz from a appelation- let's say Stellenbosch- and Blot indeed runs the fermentations as you say, this is what will happen, in June 2010: inspector X will look at grapebook of Blot- see it harvested 10 tons of Shiraz Origin Stellenbosch- Blot states it produced 6000 liters- "show it to me" he/she does, 3 tanks X 2000 liters. Thanks cheers.
Because it is straight varietal wine- Blot never has to submit a blending form. stating from which container came what and went where: he can just get a WSB number for his 2010 Stellenbosch Shiraz- all 6000 liters on the same number- still stating T1&2&3 each has 2000 liters in it- as it has. Altough quite possible to technically keep all his Shiraz on one WSB card- as the rules never says the wine had to be in one container at any given stage- more likely Blot will ask for three seperate WSB's for each tank as there are differences between the wines- but at labeling time: use the exact same label for each- it's 2010/ Stellenbosch/ Shiraz/ made by Blot/ with Alc X- he makes no claim of being " Dry red wine" on the label so the 6 g RS is no problem- only thing seperating these three " same " wines are there " Bustickets" and lot numbers.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Just to confirm I understand you correctly, Francois, would this mean that a producer named BLOT harvesting a crop of shiraz in 2010 could - in theory - stop the fermentation of one tank at a residual sugar of, say, 8g/l, and ferment another two tanks dry but proceed to age one of these dry wines in American oak and the other in French oak ... and then go on to bottle (without blending) and label the three different wines under one label, that is, BLOT SHIRAZ 2010? If so, eyebrows have to be raised on several fronts. That said, I'm told Vinho Verde producers sweeten up (or used to) their wines destined for the American market, and I doubt (but do not know for sure) there is (was) any distinction made on the label. The fact remains, when you buy a wine you deserve to know exactly what you are buying.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Tiaan: sorry if you thought I tried to directly equate murder with the issue at hand. I was merely comparing it with some other random issue that's also wrong, albeit in hyperbolic fashion.
I also realise that this issue will be complicated to solve (or at least to make it better), but the status quo is very wrong.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
As Francois points out - "it just complicates the consumers life in knowing which recommendations or competitions to trust."
I find it astonishing that this has actually happened. Surely wine producers are aware that writers and consumers do their research.
Is it simply naivete that allows for the scale of this "mistake" ? I think not.
Once again the consumer sits staring into the middle distance wondering "what next?"
Used to be "Bill Stickers will be prosecuted", perhaps it should be "Bottle Stickers will be proscuted". They appear to have lost some of their glister.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
Hi Tim
In this case the difference is more pronounced than the standard practice so point well taken that this case is more problematic.
But - to make it worth the trouble for the producer, how many people (read paying consumers) would really be assisted by indicating different bottlings and surely it would be even more confusing to have 3 labels under one (Vineyard Selection) range for most. Most shoppers don’t know or care what Wine Mag is.
What would the boundaries be to establish when different bottlings are not similar enough and require differentiating labels - nobody will be able to police this and we know you cant expect the producer to do the right thing - not if it will cost them extra money and time. And of course quality can and does vary even when the technical stat for a wine is similar.
But it would be sorted if KZ would take some more trouble to ensure less variation between bottlings – but Johan loves his batches.
Kwispedoor - A bit of a stretch from murder to confusing customers with incomplete wine labelling. I know which I would prefer to eradicate. I can at least survive the occasional surprise of an off-dry wine opened for my grilled fish.
The story spreads
This story has now been picked up by Jancis Robinson (on a free access page: click here for it), so it is fast becoming an international scandal.
Re: Three wines, one Klein Zalze label
bottling at intervals are common and it is the exception to find complete bottling runs of a wine, unless small in volume ( relative to the cellars size ) both from logistics and cash flow point of view- although under the same label you can differentiate by the "busticket" number or lot number which by law has to be on the bottle in some way shape or form.
Bottling two or more different wines under the same label is a different matter altogether and strictly by SAWIS regulations a simple feat to accomplish- a cellar buying Chenin or any other grape from a designated area, let's say Stellenbosch gets issue one WS number that covers ALL the grapes regardless of which farm it comes from, or when it was picked- when audited they take stock of all these wines and see them as the same thing- which it is, a Stellenbosch Chenin blanc. When you go to bottling and a WSB number gets issued, the same thing happens, unless a partial amount are blended with another vintage or varietal- the whole lot become one wine in the eyes of regulation- so you can bottle a unwooded Chenin in April- a lightly wooded Chenin in August- a full malo- 16 month wooded chap in May the next year...... and it's all the same thing, just different "bustickets", but on the same WSB card.
There is no way to enforce a method where a specific wine can only match up with one label- as long as the cellar makes no claim on the label which can be disputed they are allowed to do as they see fit. I doubt there was any malice or trickery involved from KZ's side, it just complicates the consumers life in knowing which recommendations or competitions to trust.
Different bottlings, different wine
Tiaan suggests that doing different bottlings under the same label is common practice. Yes, it is, especially with much larger quantities than are involved with in this case, and it is not always a problem. Usually it is at least basically the same wine that is bottled at different stages. With this Kleine Zalze Chenin, we should not really be talking of different bottlings under the same label, but different wines under the same label. because they ARE radically different wines - picked at some distance in time apart, and vinified differently, and ending up with totally different analyse, and totally different characters. That is not the same as bottling one wine at different stages. Unfortunately (as far as I know) there seems to be some loophole in the law which allows this to happen. The question is whether it is ethical procedure to not inform your customers that they might be getting a wine that is very different from the one that they had every right to expect that they were getting.