The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
Those who are think that the Wine and Spirit Board is determined to protect the integrity of the Wine of Origin system - you might want to reconsider after hearing this story. It seems a tremendous pity that the Board is unwilling, or too spineless or uncaring perhaps, to deal with a fundamental flaw in what is probably the best established and most rigorous appellation system in the New World.
To recap, briefly: In June I wrote about a nice new sweet riesling from Perdeberg Winery in the north of the Paarl district. "Wine of Origin Paarl" says the label. But the grapes don't come from the Paarl district at all; they are 100% from Durbanville.
The label tells a lie, but it is a lie permitted by the system - ultimately permitted by the Wine and Spirit Board (WSB). It is an anomaly dating back to the origins of the system. To help large producers who had historically drawn grapes from widespread areas, those producers were allowed to claim a single origin for them. Fair enough at the time, perhaps - but nothing has been done in the 40 years since then to bring integrity back to the system.
On enquiry, I was told that 45 farms are involved in this misrepresentation. In the 2010 harvest, more than 17 million kilos of grapes were allowed to have winelabels tell lies about their origins; that is, 1.38% of total production. It is a widespread practice of systematic misrepresentation, telling untruths to consumers.
Excuse me for being repetitive as well as angry - but I've found that few people can credit that this situation is true.
Anyway, in reponse to my queries to officialdom about this, I was told that the Management committee of the WSB was going to look into the matter.
And they have looked into it, as I was recently informed. Apparently, all those producers qualifying for this use of "traditional units of land" were written to and asked to comment on the idea of doing away with the practice.
This is, of course, a bit like consulting billionaires to see if they think there ought to be higher taxes on the super-rich. Unsurprisingly, most of these producers involved in this misrepresentation of the truth wanted to carry on. I was informed:
"The vast majority of participants to the Wine of Origin Scheme have requested that their vested rights be protected and that the status quo with regard to traditional land be maintained. The Board has therefore decided that the vested rights of producers be respected and maintained."
You have to love that word "therefore"!
So, nothing changes. Perdeberg Winery, for example, will be able to continue to take grapes (riesling, sauvignon blanc, whatever they want, whether the vineyard is old or new) from this farm in Durbanville.
I asked for details of the other producers making use of the practice, but was told that this is secret information.
Who are they?
You might be interested to know, as I was, who it is in the Management Committee of the WSB that is capable of making a decision that, in my opinion, goes entirely against the spirit of the Wine of Origin Scheme.
It would appear that the Management Committee, ruling on matters like this about Cape wine culture, consists of representatives mostly of big business wineries, co-ops and former co-ops (the SA Liquor Brandowners Association and Wine Cellars South Africa), and of VinPro, the producer organisation, and of the Department of Agriculture. The chair is Jakob Deist, retired director of ARC Nietvoorbij/Infruitec.
Incidentally, if you really want an interesting list of people, have a look at who is on the Wine and Spirit Board itself. I wasn't able to ascertain much about most of these people, except for the three winemakers (two of them from big merchants). At least some of the representatives of the Department of Agriculture would appear to be veterinarians. There's a lawyer, reasonably enough, and three "consultants" - but what expertise in relation to the wine industry these consultants might offer that a veterinarian can't, I'm not sure.
But because I don't think this list appears anywhere else I offer it for your bemusement:
- Ms S Nkomo (Chairperson) - Appointed by the Minister
- Mr A Adams - Consultant
- Ms C Stevens - Winemaker
- Ms W Jonker - Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
- Dr K Du Plessis - Agricultural Research Council
- Mr S Epstein - Attorney
- Mr AM Kruger - SA Liquor Brandowners Association
- Mr H Phasa - Consultant
- Mr M Damon - Winemaker
- Ms N Khubeka - Winemaker
- Ms T Montwedi - Consultant
- Dr E Mogajane - Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
- Dr B Ntsabele - Department of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
- Tim James's blog
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Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
what a ludicrous state of affairs. That would never fly in France. What can be done though?
Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
It's clear that "doing the right thing" is simply not an option for these people. Pathetic - they should be ashamed!
Why don't we write all taxi drivers a letter and ask them how they feel about not driving in the emergency lane anymore?
I wouldn't like to advocate measures that are too radical, but can we perhaps at least start by burning someone at a stake?
Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
I am amazed there has been so little reaction or at least comment on this untenable state of affairs. If the WO means anything to any winelover, how can you now believe what you read on any label?
This needs a big push from groups such as the CWG and the various interest groups. And how about all the various shows & competitions refusing to allow producers to enter who make use of this loophole?
If Just Riesling and other individuals can get the legislation changed regarding that grape's name, surely groups and individuals who care can galvanise the Wine & Spirit Board (however few are actually involved with wine !) to get this travesty changed.
Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
Morning Angela,
This whole thing is classic old school Nat government thinking: all producers are equal, except some producers are more equal than others.
I agree with your suggestion on the important contests refusing the guilty producers, who will then in turn put pressure on the legislators. This kind of thing can only ever move forward by somebody having a bit of chutzpa and making a few tough decisions.
For me the real incentive in this matter is the preservation of our wine industry's image in the eyes of our major global markets, and amongst global opinion makers. If the news were to really get out, you can be sure that only the most condensed version would stick in the popular consciousness. That condensed version would read: "The Cape's W.O. system is a sham", and it may take a whole generation for that stink would wash out. Just look what happened to the poor Austrian industry after their glycerine scandal. A couple of people messed it up for the rest.
The Cape has to take action before pressure comes from outside our boarders, or else the embasrrassment will be serious (as it should be). If we stamp this out on our own and soon, it could be seen as a real credit to the integrity of our system.
Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
Morning Angela,
This whole thing is classic old school nat government thinking: All producers are equal, except some producers are more equal than others.
I agree with your idea of the bigger contest barring the guilty producers, who will then in turn put pressure on the legislators to sort out the rules. Inevitably in situations like this, with powerful players involved, it will come down somebody having to show some chutzpa and make a couple of tough decisions.
For me the major incentive here is the preservation of our industry's image in the eyes of our major global markets and global opinion makers. If this news were to really break in the worst way, you can be sure that only the condensed version would stick in the popular consciousness. That condensed version would read "The Cape's W.O. system is a sham", and it would take a whole generation to wash that stink out. Just look what happened to the Austrian industry after the glycerine scandal. A handful of people messed it up for everyone.
We need to sort this out before pressure comes from outside, or else the embarrassment will be huge. However, if we do sort this out quickly and effectively, it would be a credit to our own intergrity and show that we care about origin, and more importantly, about not lying to wine lovers who support us.
Doing something about it
I agree with Angela that the various interest groups should do somethinig about it. If, that is, they are as concerned with integrity as they are with marketing. The Sauvignon Blanc Interest Group, for example, will certainly have members who are misrepresenting the origins of their sauvignons. Yet that group is also trying to push sauvignon as a grape that expresses its origins. If it's serious about that, it should start doing something about the situation. If all groups, including important general ones like the Cape Winemakers Guild, or regional groupings, took a stand on this, and sent their objects to the Board, perhaps we'd get somewhere.
Meanwhile, if anyone out there knows of specific wines where this is happening, I'd be happy to start collecting the names and compiling a list of "offenders" who can be challenged. Send me the names of such wines, and I will check up that you're correct, and add them to a list.
Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
Hi Tim. Well done on snooping and finding this stinker out! Let's keep making a noise about it and we may hope to see a change to the system. Potentially some negative press might encourage the change.
Doing something about it
I quote from the SAWIS web site: 'Because the role of origin is so important, an origin control system has for many years been in place in the traditional winelands of Europe, to protect both the producer and consumer. The two factors which play the most important role in determining the character and quality of a wine, is nature (soil, climate and location) and the human hand (cultivar choice, viticultural practices and winemaking techniques). Of these two, nature is considered to be the more important factor with a greater influence. In certain areas the vine grows better and within the South African wine producing areas, there are differences in soil, climate and location which causes wines to differ from region to region. If a wine claims origin, it is the statutory regulations which ensure that the wine really is from that origin. When the term “Wine of Origin” or the abbreviation "W.O." appears together with the name of a production area, such as Stellenbosch, Durbanville or Robertson on a label, it confirms that 100% of the grapes from which the wine is made, comes from that specific area.' Allowing the 'traditional units of land' to continue makes a mockery of the entire system - never mind the pinch of salt, bring on the barrel.
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Re: The rottenness in the Wine of Origin Scheme
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