Grape

The wages of ... whatever

With the announcement of the new minimum wages for farmworkers, their recent struggles can be seen, I suppose, to have been substantially succesful. Although if, as widely threatened, job-losses are a result, the victory will be rendered even more ambiguous.

Inevitably, there must remain a lot of bitterness on both sides and let’s hope that something a little more humane will eventually grow from what has been a painful experience all round. To the extent that farmers actually see and admit the legitimacy of farmworker protests against their generally deplorable living standards, I actually think it was emotionally particularly difficult for them. The workers, after all, knew what they were striving after; it was a straightforward fight for themselves and their children. 

Many of the farmers, on the other hand, were to an extent being fundamentally challenged at a deep level – the level at which (it seems to me) they have somehow felt and thought that farming was really only about themselves and their quasi-mystical relationship to the land. Within that conception, they seem to easily, unquestioningly think of  farmworkers as basically contented with their lot. Unfortunately, I have my doubts about how many landowners allowed their myths to be challenged.

(Possibly the most interesting, and depressing, set of thoughtful statistics and considerations that emerging over the past months was the study suggesting that farmworkers simply cannot survive decently on existing wages, while most farmers cannot afford to pay decent wages. A horrible knot, indicating that there is something fundamentally wrong with “the system”, a situation to which everyone must respond differently, in ways largely depending on their politics.)

Everyone talks about the bad economic times that prevail. There have been good times for the wine (and fruit) industry of the Western Cape since 1994, and it would be difficult for anyone to argue that those good times led to a great deal of advancement in worker conditions. Not much, really, has changed for workers since 1994 and all its promised liberation.

The most significant thing that changed for them was when the new national government brought agricultural labourers (and domestic workers) under the Basic Conditions of Employment Act, thereby hopefully ensuring the bare minimum of labour standards. Incidentally, there are now people decrying the lack of linkage between farmers and government – let’s not forget the pre-1994 situation when there was a very cosy relationship indeed between government and farmers. It led to the exclusion of farmworkers from those legislated minimal conditions.

To return to my hopeful thought: just perhaps, this might even prove a bit of a useful jolt to everyone. A wake-up call, some would say.

But, then there’s depressing reality. Take a newsletter received today from Oak Valley winery, signed by Christopher Rawbone-Viljoen, son of the owner of the huge Elgin property, not long since returned from his postgraduate education in “wine business” in Australia. (The newsletter is available here).

Of course, the newsletter is honestly upfront in saying that it offers a “farmer’s perspective”. Fair enough. What is distressing is that among all the newsletter’s self-righteousness and accusations there is not the slightest shred of acknowledgement that most farmworkers in the wine industry – let alone any other agricultural industry – have a hard time. Not even a brief mention of sympathy for people who have been earning less per day than the cheapest Oak Valley wine costs per bottle. And, of course, photos of burning rather than of ragged children. Fair enough, it's a farmer's perspective.

So we get a bit of reasoned argument about the general situation and about affordability, coupled with the usual farmer hysteria about this being a political strike. I have seen so much reference to things like Mr R-V’s allegation about “ANC sponsored troublemakers bussed in from Cape Town” without any evidence whatsover that the author is actually in a position to confidently make the allegations. Where’s any evidence beyond prejudice and prejudiced imagination as to who “sponsored” the supposed bus-travellers? (Quite apart from explaining why they shouldn’t offer their support). Is it correct to speak of them as “troublemakers” as opposed to – for example – potential temporary workers, or sympathisers (family friends, political supporters). As to being “bussed in” – unlike farmers, let’s remember for a moment, these are not people who can jump into their own 4X4s to go where they think they are needed. Farmers and their spokespeople too often show contempt for their workers by imagining that they are the dupes of some or other political force (which is a very different thing from observing political forces coming into  a situation to attempt to exploit it).

It is clear that, by all accepted standards, Oak Valley is an exemplary employer. And a very rare one, sadly.

One last thought on the whole business. There have recently been reminders that South Africa is the most unequal country in the world when it comes to income distribution – the “GINI coefficient” shows that only Brazil can compete with us for this dubious distinction.

I won’t wonder what salary (and housing benefits, etc) is earned by young Christopher Rawbone-Viljoen, son of a rich farmer and not much troubled to find a job, compared with his comparatively well-paid workers. But it’s something to be borne in mind when some enterprises complain about the unaffordability of wage increases. It’s not written in the stars that a winemaker or manager at a winery should earn, say, a hundred or fifty times what a vineyard labourer earns and also have a holiday house at Elands Bay. It really isn’t. It comes back, I suppose, to questions about systems, and politics, and choices.

Re: The wages of ... whatever

Tim, you are right, Mr. Rawbone-Viljoen does not say anything about the plight of workers or the "wragged children" because his family have actually done something about it, provided decent work for over 200 families, provide meals, homes, clinics, a creche, pension scheme and support (all evidenced in his newletter and website) which is way more than most commentators have done in this sorry saga.

And why you refer to his qualifications in Wine Business in quotation marks escapes me.

I have never met Mr Rawbone- Viljoen and carry no brief for him or his farm.

 

Re: The wages of ... whatever

Indeed, Terminus, and I was happy to acknowledge that Oak Valley is "an exemplary employer". I meant that he was making generalisations about the whole situation and omitting a crucial part of it. As to the quotation marks - I only used them as I don't know the proper name of the qualification; this was intended as a vague indication of its purport. (Maybe, as you imply with your capital letters for the phrase, it is in fact the correct name - otherwise I'd have to say that I don't know why you use them.)

Re: The wages of ... whatever

Tim, while agreeing you have the right to put your sentiments in (e)-print - which you do in a commendably lucid and opinionated manner - I really think you have to decide which part of the industry you wish to be involved in. On the one hand you have commercial interests in the wine business, such as being a paid columnist and your senior position with the Platter Wine Guide. On the other hand you are extremely aggressive towards wine producers, having for example taken the position that living standards on farms are "generally deplorable". If you had any real moral backbone and were serious about your political expressiveness you would not promote the South African wine farmer through your M&G or you Platter activities. The powers behind the Platter Guide must be finding your negative attitude towards the industry, especially your petty personal swipes, a tad uncomfortable seeing as it is the industry that allows Platter to exist.

Your stand will be admired. Should you take it. Seeing you ask petty personal questions of Mr Rawbone-Viljoen, I can - for example - ask how you yourself can attend wine launches costing R500 and above per head whilst at the same time trashing wine producers for leading seemingly opulent lifestyles.

Make up your mind.

Re: The wages of ... whatever

Gosh Friedl. I think you must distinguish between being a journalist and being a PR consultant. My job as a journalist is to report and comment, both favourably and unfavourably, as I see fit. I am not a propagandist for the wine industry and am not precluded from making any comments I wish. There are surely enough "sunshine journalists" around who only ever dish out nice comments? (Personally, I find it very troubling that most wine-commentators have refrained from comment on an extremely important part of the recent history of South African wine.)

There is, by the way, no question that most of my comments and analysis about the wine industry are extremely positive. Just browse through the articles on Grape, for example; and I also genuinely doubt if, on an international level, any South African wine writer has published more enthusiastic articles and comment about South African wine than I have. As long as I am employed to do so, or do so unpaid on Grape, I will continue to promote what I see as good aspects, and criticise what I see as bad aspects, of the wine industry. I have, for example, written very favourably about the wines of Oak Valley (for one small example I nominated one of them in my list of SA wines for the book "1001 Wines You Must Try Before You Die"), and will no doubt continue to do so, and have never, so far as I recall, made a negative remark about Oak Valley's wine production, even if I have criticised an article in their latest newsletter.

As to asking "petty personal questions" of Mr R-V - if you read the opening words of my final paragraph you will see that I specifically do not. Nor will you find anywhere in my writings a place where I "trash" any wine producer for leading an opulent lifestyle. In my final article here I merely hint at the possibility of thinking a little more equitably if it seems that profits are not sufficient to pay workers decently (clearly this is not addressed to Oak Valley).

I will do my duty as a writer, which is to convey truths as I see fit. I will try to do it better, always. May I suggest that you try to do better your sole duty as a reader: to actually read carefully,  and not misrepresent what you read. Also, I humbly suggest, it would be more useful if you addressed the problems I raised rather than suggesting that my raising them is tantamount to disqualification of me as a wine journalist.

Re: The wages of ... whatever

Friedl, I need to back up Tim's response to you. I do not have his literary skills but as a wine writer colleague, I agree that it is our responsibility to to report and comment without fear or favour. In this instance, he can do it so much better than I, or many others can. It doesn't mean I don't share his sentiments. May I also direct you to the latest Du Toitskloof blog  http://dutoitskloofwines.wordpress.com/2013/02/07/knowledge-is-power/ which adds another layer to the discussion. This is the sort of approach all wine producers should be taking with their staff.

What concerns me more than what either Christopher Rawbone-Viljoen, Tim or the Du Toitskloof blogger have written is that not every wine writer or person involved with promoting wine in one way or another bothers to keep up to date or  even takes an interest in what has been going on at grass roots. Last week I was asked by a local writer to explain to a UK colleague about what is going on with regard to the strikes in the winelands; surely the onus should be on everyone involved in writing about wine, at whatever level, to be cognisant of and convey to their readers issues of more import and beyond wine itself. There then might be fewer readers reacting to Tim's comments in the same way as you have Friedl.

Re: The wages of ... whatever

Read both Rawbone Viljoen and du Toits Kloof letters and consider that both talk with pride that their skilled workers earn good salaries and have a decent lifestyle. Then also consider that most ( all?) of du Toits Kloof grapes are machine picked. And then consider that if any grapes are to be handpicked, then at the time of the farm worker strikes there were no migrant labourers around to make mayhem. 

And of course the reason Toitskloof wines are inexpensive is that they no longer employ migrant labour for hand picking.

 

Tim James

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